Siargao (shar-gow) is the surfing mecca of the Philippines and has been attracting surfers for decades thanks to its all-year round good waves, laid-back atmosphere and stunning landscapes. There are several surfing breaks dotted along the island’s east coast to suit all levels, including the popular Cloud 9 where the Surfing Cup of the same name happens annually.
We loved our time on the island, it’s a beautiful place to explore, surf and unwind! Hopefully our surf guide to Siargao will give you the information you need to plan the perfect trip to this surfing hotspot.
QUICK FACTS
Coastline – 27km
Population – 94.273 (2015)
Airport Code – IAO
Time Zone – GMT +8
Currency – Philippine Pesos
Pros
Cons
Although the dry season in Siargao is between March and October, i’s between August and November that the surfing conditions, swell and wind, are at their best. The dry season on the island isn’t pronounced even during summer months and, while temperatures can drop in monsoon season, it wouldn’t fall below the 20Cs.
As of writing, there are only three ATMs on the whole island, one in General Luna and two in Dapa, however, it’s still advised to take plenty of cash with you before you fly to Siargao as these are often offline or out of money.
In case of an emergency, there are places where you can eat or sleep that accept card payments like Buddha’s or Kermit. Sometimes there will be a surcharge to be added to your payment by some businesses for the transaction.
The tipping culture isn’t very strong in the Philippines so you won’t be expected to leave one most of the time.
Occasionally you’ll feel a little pressured into tipping, like when receiving a tip card at the end of a service, such as a massage, or being helped with your luggage at a coach station.
The majority of restaurants and cafes have tip boxes on their counters but only very few restaurants add a service charge to their bill. Staff won’t be offended if you don’t leave a tip behind.
Here are some rough costs that we found on our trip to Siargao, hopefully they may help you plan your own trip.
Philippine Airlines (PAL), Cebu Pacific and Skyjet fly daily from Manila, Clark, Davao and Cebu airports to Siargao and flight duration varies depending on your port of departure with the shortest flight being from Cebu – 45 minutes – and the longest from Manila – 2 hours.
Cebu – Siargao (Return)
Notes: Cebu Pacific have flights to Siargao 3 to 4 times a day whilst PAL (Philippine Airlines) run twice a day.
Cheap deal – £50
Average – £85
Manila – Siargao (Return)
Notes: Skyjet flies once a day and Cebu Pacific twice a day.
Cheap deal – £98
Average – £135
Clark – Siargao (Return)
Notes: PAL (Philippine Airlines) flies once a day to Siargao.
Cheap deal – £95
Average – £150
Davao – Siargao
Notes: PAL (Philippine Airlines) flies once a day from Davao to Siargao.
Cheap deal – £95
Average – £150
ACCOMMODATION
Dorm bed: ~£5.50-7.50 (₱300-500)
Private room: ~£20+ (₱1400)
Top end: ~£45+ (₱3000)
SCOOTER HIRE
~ £7.50 (₱500) per day inclusive of surf board racks
FOOD
Eating Out – ~ £4.50 -7.50 (₱300-500)
Beer – ~ £0.60 – £1 (₱40-70)
Coffee – ~ £1.20 (₱80)
SURF LESSONS
~ £7.50 (₱500) per hour
SURF BOARD RENTAL
~ £3.75 (₱250) per hour
Surigao – Dapa (Siargao)
Notes: Boats leave Surigao City for Dapa at approx. 6am, 11.30am and 12 noon and time to get to Dapa can vary from anything between 2+ hours to 4 hours, depending on which ferry you take. Ferry schedules may change without notice, check before you travel. The ferry costs £3.75 ( (₱250). Details are correct at time of writing 2019.
In more recent times Siargao has opened up to more travellers as budget flights started flying directly to the island.
As we already mentioned in the Money section, Philippine Airlines (PAL), Cebu Pacific and Skyjet fly daily from Manila, Clark, Davao and Cebu airports to Siargao and flight duration varies depending on your port of departure with the shortest flight being from Cebu – 45 minutes – and the longest from Manila – 2 hours.
Siargao Airport (IAO), also known as Sayak Airport, the name of the barangay (area or district) the airport is in, is serviced by three airlines: Cebu Pacific, Philippines Airlines and Skyjet.
It’s a very small airport divided into arrivals and departures which means checking in or out can be done fairly quickly but it also means that there are no shops or cafes.
It’s recommended that you arrange the transport in advance but, if you don’t, you’re sure to be approached by one of the van drivers or, alternatively, you can rent a scooter providing your luggage isn’t too big.
The small teardrop shaped island of Siargao can be easily circumnavigated in a day and the drive is picturesque, with its paved roads fringed by endless lush coconut palms.
Tricycles and rental scooters are the preferred choice amongst tourists but there are several other ways to get around the island.
Tricycles, which are the Filipino version of an Indian rickshaw or the habal-habal, which is a modified motorcycle taxi, are widely available anywhere in the island.
In addition to scooter rentals, there’s another option that can be great for small groups, Binggo rides. Binggo is a mini-multicab similar to a tricycle which can be a good alternative to hiring scooters.
Cars are less commonly used but nonetheless an alternative to get around the island.
£0.30-0.45 (₱20-30) per person
NOTES: This is the standard price for a short ride within the General Luna (GL) area however, if you’re travelling longer distances or on non-paved roads, expect prices to soar up to £15 (₱1200).
£0.30-0.45 (₱20-30)
£4.50 (₱300) pp each way – airport to General Luna
£7.50 (₱500) per day inclusive of board racks
£37.50 (₱2500) per day
Self Drive:
£18 (₱1200) per day – 1-3 days
£15 (₱1200) per day – 4-6 days
£10.50 (₱800) per day – 7+ days
With a Driver (can be your guide too):
£23.50 (₱1700) up to 10 hours
General Luna is the main town at the heart of Siargao island where most of the main shops are and many hotels are located. Some people choose to stay in town but many will opt for other options further towards Cloud 9 along “Tourism Road”.
There are plenty of different accommodation options towards Cloud 9 including hostels, hotels, retreats and surf camps. You’ll also find restaurants, surf shops and other amenities along this road. Whatever your choice it’s worth having a wander around General Luna and checking out some of the shops and cafes too.
Siargao is the surfing hotspot of the Philippines with 27 km of coastline, a decent all year round swell. The islands been a draw card with surfers for decades. With Cloud 9, a surf break ranked in the top ten waves in the world, it’s easy to see why surfers flock to Siargao. The teardrop shaped island has a coastline covered with reefs and sandy beaches providing plenty of stellar surfing spots due to its proximity to the deep depths of the Philippine Trench (the result of a collision of tectonic plates). Take a look at our article on the best surf spots in Siargao for more detail.
Absolute beginner surfers should always take lessons first, surf spots can often be unpredictable or have hidden dangers. If in doubt, get a surf instructor. On Siargao there are a large range of surf schools and instructors that can take you to the right surf spot perfect for your level.
Level – Super Beginner
Little Pony is a spot at Jacking Horse, it’s closer to the beach and mainly used by absolute beginners getting their first taste of riding small waves. It’s a gentle first introduction to surfing!
Inner – Beginner
Outer – Intermediate
Jacking Horse is just a short walk down the beach from Cloud 9 and is a pretty perfect spot to get a few lessons. You can get lessons from instructors on the beach and will cost around £7.50 (₱500) per hour whilst hiring a board is £3.75 (₱250) per hour… we’d definitely recommend getting lessons due to the strong current that runs across the break, otherwise (like I found out!) you may spend all your time in the water paddling just to get back to the line-up. Most people have an instructor even if it’s just to tow them across the break back to catch another wave. There’s a rocky bottom at Jacking Horse too making it difficult to get out back on the wave without being towed.
The waves at Jacking Horse in the summer (June, July, August) are usually too small to surf on and surf schools and instructors will take you to alternative spots.
Level – Beginner/Intermediate
I didn’t get to ride this wave but as a beginner (but not total beginner) I’d be heading here on my next visit to Siargao as the slow wave looked appealing for someone looking to start catching more waves. Guiwan can be a tricky spot to find with just a tiny wooden sign nailed to a palm tree on the side of the road. Once you’ve found it you have to trek for 5 minutes through the muddy forest full of coconut palms in order to reach the beach. It’s worth the trek though just take in the beauty of the forest itself. If the surf conditions aren’t great or it’s low tide it may be too dangerous for beginners due to the rocks, take an instructor.
Level – Beginner with Instructor (Caution)
So called “Bamboo Beach” is situated at Bamboo Beach resort. Whether or not the beach is actually called Bamboo Beach is anyone’s guess (the sign says so) but our guide took us to this spot at the resort. There’s surf boards to rent and instructors at the resort who know the surf well. It’s fairly critical as a beginner that your hire an instructor who can tow you out onto the waves and make sure you avoid a nasty accident with the reef that can be dangerously exposed at low tide.
Level – Beginner/Intermediate
Daku is a stunningly beautiful surf spot just off Daku Island, so you can only get there by boat. It’s pretty simple though, you can hire one by the market and around the boardwalk in General Luna, the trip will take just 15 minutes and cost you around £3 (₱200) each. Boat drivers will actually wait while you surf so you’ve got a ride back to the island. Daku is the kind of surf spot where beginners accompanied by an instructor works well. Usually the best advice is, if in doubt, get yourself an instructor. Instructors will know the surf spots well enough to know where the currents are and make sure you’re safe and not putting yourself in a dangerous situation.
Only extremely experienced and knowledgable surfers attempt expert/pro waves.
Level – Expert/Pro
Although it’s not for beginners, we couldn’t write about Siargao’s surfing without mentioning its most famous surf spot, Cloud 9! It’s the kind of wave that most surfers dream about with superb barrelling right hand waves that are both heavy and powerful yet relatively short. Due to Cloud 9’s fame and the fact it’s pretty easy to get to, it can attract a bit of a crowd.
Throughout the summer (June, July and the start of August) Cloud 9 is one of the only surf spots that can be surfed on the whole island. Although if you’re a expert surfer you wouldn’t want to visit during these months as the waves more suited for less experienced surfers along with their instructors.
Cloud 9 breaks over a very shallow reef and at low tide it can be extremely dangerous, you could get hurt or smash your board, so it’s only recommended to surf at mid to high tide.
Cafe Honest is a vegan cafe that exclusively uses their own grown or locally sourced ingredients in the preparation of their Asian dishes.
It’s a very cosy space overlooking the main road with some tables outside and on their rooftop where from you can also watch the cooks in action.
We sat at the rooftop for a bit of people watching and, since the cafe is in their soft launch phase and orders can take a little longer to be served, we also had time to catch up with our messages while we waited. It came in really handy that this might be the only place in Siargao (or even in the Philippines) where you don’t even need to ask for the wifi password. Result!
Since we arrived in the country, we’ve been having very light lunches so I ordered the Japchae – stir-fried sweet potato noodles with shiitake – and tarragon ice tea to wash it down. It was just what I needed!
Paul had a mango smoothie – it was delish – and the soya chicken which he enjoyed but found it to be a bit on the salty and garlicky side.
It was like eating at a local’s home with the expected Filipino hospitality and a menu full of ‘vegan goodness choices’, to use their own words.
You haven’t been to Siargao, if you haven’t been to Shaka Cafe.
Why? ‘Cause their smoothie bowls, shakes and juices aren’t only a treat to one’s taste buds but are totally Instagram-worthy. We’d already been to their Moalboal shop but had to stop by again at Cloud 9 for a Bom Dia açai smoothie bowl. While we thought service was a tad friendlier in Moalboal, you can’t really beat sipping on a tasty smoothie while overlooking the ocean and the world famous Cloud 9 pier.
Buddha’s has the heaviest tables and chairs, the loveliest dogs, the coolest staff portraits and the best attention to detail. Their Asian fusion dishes are delicious, sustainable and organic with lots of veggie options on the menu. And, they take cards! (+ 4% surcharge)
If you’ve ever read about Siargao, you definitely have come across this name before. Kermit is a hybrid of high-end hostel, surf school, bar and restaurant all in one. The restaurant is best known for their authentic wood fire pizza made with produce imported from Italy and from local markets and organic farms. Needless to say that you should try their pizzas but I’d also recommend the vegetarian curry with garlic rice which was delish and reasonably priced compared to the rest of the menu. If you’re not an in house guest, make sure to book a table in advance as the place gets packed every night, especially during their happy hour between 4-7pm (or closing time on Fridays), for obvious reasons.
Kali Ma is a plant-based cafe and restaurant tucked away on the green grounds of Lotus Shores yoga retreat.
All dishes on their menu are made from scratch using only fresh ingredients either from their own vegetable garden or sourced from local organic farms.
We’ve been there a couple of times and while I was extremely impressed with their baked cauliflower kofta balls, totally falling in love with their chutney, I was slightly underwhelmed by their pricey breakfast fruit salad bowl, even though it was tasty nonetheless.
You might have a bit of trouble finding Kali Ma Cafe but your persistence to have a special sensorial experience savouring delicate tasting whole food dishes will definitely pay off.
I will tell you why Lotus Shores is one of my favourite places in Siargao.
We attempted to find it a few times and third time lucky, it was like stepping into a portal to a parallel universe far away from the bustling and hustling of General Luna despite being right in the middle of it.
It’s a peaceful yoga, surf and farm retreat haven where you can drop by for a class, like I did, or book yourself in one of their immersion programs while staying in their beautiful accommodation, which is what I’d do if I’m back one day.
Lotus Shores is also home to the island’s only Yoga Dojo (up on a tree house!) where our teacher, Halena, led our small group through an intuitive and delicate yoga class-cum-vinyasa slow dance.
Since the 30C heat made me feel as if I attended a Bikram class, it was an obvious choice to head to the Kali Ma Cafe afterwards for a well deserved juice to cool down while soaking up on silence, sunshine and nature.
Price: single class £8.80 (₱600), inclusive of mat and towels
Daily classes once or twice a day, check their website for the schedule
Buddha’s Surf Resort is another popular place for yoga classes in Siargao.
Located halfway between General Luna and Cloud 9, classes take place daily on the upper floor part of the restaurant at 4pm and are suitable to all levels with a special focus on helping those with aching muscles from surfing.
You can also stay at the resort to make it easier to get your daily yoga fix.
Price: single class £5.80 (₱400) inclusive of mat
Daily classes at 4pm
Greenhouse is within the top three one-stop shop where you can stay, eat, surf and have your yoga fix alongside Buddha’s and Kermit (that at the time of writing does not have a yoga instructor).
Classes are held twice daily, with a choice of Vinyasa and Ashtanga, at their tranquil open air, ocean view studio with nature as your soundtrack and backdrop.
Same as with Buddha’s Surf Resort, you can also book your accommodation at Greenhouse, so you can roll out of bed straight to your daily yoga practise.
Price: single class £5.10 (₱350)
Daily classes at 10am and 4pm
My ‘massage radar’ spotted Esse Spa as we arrived at our accommodation so I popped by to check their price list. Later, I just dropped them a Facebook message and, voila, I was all booked in. It was that simple!
On the day of my appointment, I was greeted by a super friendly girl (whose name I never got to ask!) and then by Cindy, the masseuse, who washed my feet with beautifully scented water before taking me to therapy room for a combination of Shiatsu and Swedish massage.
I’ve been keen to try Shiatsu for a while so the combination massage sounded perfect as I could still enjoy some of it in case Shiatsu wasn’t pleasant (thinking about you, Thai massage).
Cindy has fairy hands so the massage was very relaxing and when you’re struggling to get yourself back together to leave, they surprise you with a lovely cuppa. What a place!
Price: ranging from £3-£21.90 (₱200 – ₱1500)
Sirena Spa is a funky salon owned by Filipino-Aussie model Lauren Reid.
It’s hard for passers by to ignore this place: firstly, because of its cool decor visible through glass windows and secondly, because there are clients being pampered all day, everyday. So don’t fight the urge to go in, take a seat and treat yourself as it’d be rude not to.
Price: ranging from £2.90-24 (₱199 – ₱1,650)
You’ll often stumble across Kermit if you read any blogs about Siargao, it seems like they’ve been pretty active hosting bloggers. Having said that Kermit’s is a decent place to say in Siargao, it’s not the cheapest, but it’s a good spot to return to and chill out with decent accommodation and a very good bar/restaurant. The whole setup is as high-end hostel, surf school, bar, restaurant and special “chill out” area where guests only can sit and order food and drink from the restaurant. We splashed out on our stay and booked into a really nice deluxe room that had everything we needed including air-con, balcony and super comfy bed.
A basic room will cost you £27 (₱1800) per night with more deluxe options from £44-£60 (₱3000 – ₱4,000) a night.
If you’re on a tight budget then it could be worth looking at staying at one of Siargao’s friendly hostels. We spent a few nights in a private room (with air-con) at I Love Siargao Hostel and found it really welcoming, the staff were really helpful and the rooms were clean and tidy. If you’re after a bit of socialising then there’s plenty of people hanging out in the communal area to chat or play games. There’s free WiFi, a garden with cats and dogs and plenty of hammocks to chill out it. Only downside we found was the lack of a hot shower.
A bed in a dorm at I Love Siargao will set you back about £8 (₱542) a night whilst a private room around £26 (₱1752) .
Buddha’s Surf Resort is a great all rounder, beautiful setting, good accommodation (clean rooms and warm showers), great restaurant serving Thai/Asian food plus breakfast and also plenty of tours, surfboard rental as well as lessons. The beach is about 300 metres walk across the street from Buddha’s.
Prices range from £53 to £74 a night (₱3600-₱5000) a night for two people depending on how luxury you want to go. Family accommodation with one single bed and 3 doubles (separate rooms) costs around £86 (₱5800) per night.
Lotus Shores isn’t only all about yoga! It’s a farm retreat nestled in lush green scenery and surrounded by coconut palms, a place for yogis, surfers, and conscious adventurers. If that sounds like your kind of thing then it’s well worth considering Lotus Shores, they have a range of accommodation options including private rooms and male/female dorms too.
The commune at Lotus Shores host Siargao’s only yoga centre, Yoga Dojo along with Kali Ma Cafe serving a tasty selection of plant-based dishes. If we we to go back to Siargao I’d definitely be considering booking into Lotus Shores.
Male/Female dorms cost £19 (₱1300) per night and private rooms £59 (₱4000) to £66 (₱4500) per night.
So that’s a wrap, for our surf trip guide to Siargao. We loved our stay on the island, it’s a great place to unwind with some yoga and a awesome place to explore and discover surf spots. If you have any comments, questions or there’s anything you think we’ve missed, we’d love to hear from you > info@surfandunwind.com.